While trying to conserve stabilizer, I developed the method described here. I took pictures as I went along, so hopefully it will make sense. Four things make this work well:
1. No need to hoop another piece of stabilizer with every stitch out.
2. No Duc Tape gets on project, or hoops.
3. Duc Tape HOLDS. It really HOLDS!
4. Duc Tape will peel off itself easily, so it can be removed each time to prevent build up of tape layers. This is important because it will keep the stabilizer flat against the machine bed.
1. No need to hoop another piece of stabilizer with every stitch out.
2. No Duc Tape gets on project, or hoops.
3. Duc Tape HOLDS. It really HOLDS!
4. Duc Tape will peel off itself easily, so it can be removed each time to prevent build up of tape layers. This is important because it will keep the stabilizer flat against the machine bed.
The Project
This project involved 9 very small children's vests needing words embroidered in a narrow area of the vest. The vests could not be hooped, so they had to be stuck to the stabilizer. You can use any method to do this (spray, sticky stabilizer, etc.). I was out of spray, so I used a combination method ---- double-sided fabric tape and basting stitches.
The pictures follow my steps, numbering left to right:
1. I created a plastic template of the vest shape with the design area and centering lines marked. I used the template to mark the outline of the plastic, centering the marks so that the design would end up where I wanted it to be.
2. To hold the vest in place, I stuck double-sided tape (Stitch Perfection Tape) in various places within the drawn area. It can be used multiple times before replacing.
3. I placed the vest on the marked area, sticking it to the tape, and adding pins to keep it in place.
4. I attached the hoop in place under the needle.
5. The basting stitches square was stitched.
6. The design was stitched.
7. I removed the basting stitches, then cut a square out of the stabilizer to release the vest from the hoop.
8. I cut a square of stabilizer larger than the hole, and placed Duc Tape around the edges.
9. To cover the hole, I turned the hoop over and stuck the stabilizer square to the back.
10. It is now ready for the next stitch out, and IT WILL HOLD VERY WELL.
11. Stitch out completed.
12. After the next taping and stitch out, I began removing the excess tape, leaving only the original tape since it would destroy the stabilizer if I tried to remove it. So, LEAVE THE FIRST TAPE ALONE. Only remove the following tapings to prevent buildup of layers.
The pictures follow my steps, numbering left to right:
1. I created a plastic template of the vest shape with the design area and centering lines marked. I used the template to mark the outline of the plastic, centering the marks so that the design would end up where I wanted it to be.
2. To hold the vest in place, I stuck double-sided tape (Stitch Perfection Tape) in various places within the drawn area. It can be used multiple times before replacing.
3. I placed the vest on the marked area, sticking it to the tape, and adding pins to keep it in place.
4. I attached the hoop in place under the needle.
5. The basting stitches square was stitched.
6. The design was stitched.
7. I removed the basting stitches, then cut a square out of the stabilizer to release the vest from the hoop.
8. I cut a square of stabilizer larger than the hole, and placed Duc Tape around the edges.
9. To cover the hole, I turned the hoop over and stuck the stabilizer square to the back.
10. It is now ready for the next stitch out, and IT WILL HOLD VERY WELL.
11. Stitch out completed.
12. After the next taping and stitch out, I began removing the excess tape, leaving only the original tape since it would destroy the stabilizer if I tried to remove it. So, LEAVE THE FIRST TAPE ALONE. Only remove the following tapings to prevent buildup of layers.
