My opinion - it just isn't worth the risk to my quilts.  I've always said, that anything left in your quilt (not washed/rinsed out) can lead to future issues.  I don't leave the air-erase pen marks in my quilts, either.  You need to understand that these are chemicals and many chemicals don't like other chemicals (i.e. laundry soap, etc.) and may decided to come back to stay if another chemical affects it.

I would like to reference an article from a quilter (Jenny Lyon) who researched this question about using Frixion Pens to mark ours valuable quilts.  I have avoided using them because I had heard of issues that have come up when quilters use them.  As convenient as they are, I just didn't want to risk it.  I like what Jenny did, because she went right to the manufacturer with her questions.  You can go to this page to read her entire entry, or read an excerpt from her article below.

ARTICLE EXCERPT:
So in summary, straight from the manufacturer’s mouth so to speak, a summary of using the Frixion pens on fabric:
1.      Frixion pens combine gel ink and thermo ink. You are marking your quilt with a gel pen that disappears.
2.      The marks will reappear if the quilt gets cold (anything below freezing I think-I did not confirm the specific temperature) unless the mark is completely removed with an ink remover. Even after a thorough steam of the marks, they will reappear in the cold. This is part of the inherent chemistry of the ink combination.
3.      To completely remove the ink so that it will not ghost or reappear in the cold, you will need an ink remover and also may possibly need to scrub the area. The manufacturer has tested Amodex and Mötsenböcker’s Lift-Off 3 and found them to be fairly effective in removing the ink.
4.      Frixion pens sometimes leave a ghost mark after steaming. This is the thermo ink showing on the quilt, not the gel. The Pilot rep said to rid the piece of ghost marks you would need to treat it with the ink removers listed above.

So this is a definitive summary of the Frixion pens straight from the pen’s manufacturer.
For me, I will not use these pens very often because I frequently do competition pieces. I cannot risk having any problems with the marking method I use. I think they are great pens for other marking needs but we need to be aware of their limitations. And remember that the Pilot pen company did not design these pens for fabric.

*******END OF EXCERPT*******

In reading other posts, I have seen comments that even these removers didn't help their precious quilts.  Nope, not worth it.

I think these are the cutest fabric boxes and I simply love them.  Instructions can be found here:  http://seaside-stitches.blogspot.ca/2013/03/fabric-box-tutorial.html

For me, they make great little thread and fabric scrap trash boxes to sit beside my sewing.  They are portable, so I can take them with me to classes or sewing functions, which means I don't need to locate a trash bucket to use when I am out and about.  Since there is only batting inside, they mash flat for transportation, or can be used to carry supplies.  I used the instructions from this site to make my first one, but then I saw a picture somewhere else that showed the little pockets on the outside of the boxes, rather than inside.  Both are just too cute for words!  :o) 

Below are my boxes.  The red one was made as instructed by Seaside Stitches.  The blue one is the one I made with outside pockets.  To make it, use the instructions for the original box, but sew the corner seams with wrong sides together, then flatten the flaps up against the corner and tack in place.

I know it's been awhile since I posted.  Quilts of Valor has kept me soooooo busy.  However, I have had a little time lately to do some handwork.  I purchased the book "The New Hexagon" by Katja Marek, and am enjoying making these hexies. 

In my previous postings, I have raved about Inklingo, and still believe it is the best way.  However, I decided to do a "fair" test on methods (English Paper Piecing (EPP) and Hand Piecing) as a comparison to see what is best for me.  I used Block 1 from the book for my tests.  The following are the results:

 Example #1 - Traditional Hand Sewing
1. Copy the pattern onto freezer paper.
2. Cut the pieces out.
3. Iron the pieces onto the back side of the fabric to temporarily attach it to the fabric.
4. Trim the fabric to 1/4" seam allowances. 
5. Use a mechanical pencil to draw a line right against the paper edge to mark the seam allowance, then peel the freezer paper off the fabric (5 minutes).
6. Hand stitch the pieces along the drawn seam line (30 minutes).

Total time to make = 35 minutes.  No paper inside while sewing.

Pros - no basting; no paper left inside; easier to sew without paper; stitches do not show; takes less time to complete. See my February 2013 blog posting about my hand stitching.
Cons - outer edge of block is not turned under for applique.  It is done separately if desired.

Example #2 - Traditional  EPP
1. Copy the pattern onto lightweight cardstock.
2. Cut out pieces.
3. Pin pattern pieces onto fabric.
4. Trim the fabric to 1/4" seam allowances.
5. Thread baste seams down around the pieces (15 minutes).
6. Use a Whip Stitch to join the pieces (60 minutes).

Total time to make = 75 minutes.  Paper remains in block.

Pros - outer edge of block is turned under and can be appliqued as is.
Cons - paper remains inside until added to another block; harder to sew with paper inside;  stitches show; takes more time to complete.

Example #3 - Glue-Basted EPP
1. Copy the pattern onto freezer paper or cardstock.
2. Cut out pieces.
3. Pin or glue pattern piece onto back of fabric.
4. Trim a 1/4" seam allowance around pattern.
5. Glue baste the seams down around the pieces (5 minutes).
6. Use a Ladder Stitch to join the pieces (50 minutes).

Total time to make - 55 minutes.  Paper remains in block.

Pros - outer edge of block is turned under and can be appliqued as is.
Cons - paper remains inside until added to another block; harder to sew with paper inside;  stitches show; takes more time to complete.

Summation:
In summary, I still feel that traditional hand stitching/piecing is better than EPP, whether done with Inklingo, or just stitched from templates as in Example #1.  My hand stitches don't show, and it is easier on the hands because there is no paper inside while sewing.  Additionally, the paper is not left inside to deal with until sewn to another block.  Although EPP is portable, I believe hand piecing my way is more portable than EPP.  There is no basting involved, and fewer tools are needed.

As with so many quilting projects, there is more than one way to do things.  Everyone should try different methods and techniques to find out which works best for them.

Check my February 2013 blog posting for a video on how I hand stitch.